30 amp rv plug to dryer plug7/25/2023 ![]() That problem was later corrected by using four wires, Two Hots, Neutral, Equipment GROUND. However, since its bonded to the Neutral at the Service Entrance it could (if so wired) carry return current and there actually exists 120 VAC between it and the Hots. It was the (often Bare/Green) Equipment GroundING Conductor NOTTTTTTTTT the Neutral. To be safe and comply with the NEC NEVERRRRRRRRRRR use Ground for Neutral and NEVERRRRRRRRR use Neutral for Ground.Īctually, older 30 amp dryer outlets used 2 hots, and a ground wire. ![]() NOTE a 50 amp 3 pole 4 wire grounding receptacle CAN BE MODIFIED for a 50 amp 120/240 volt RV use as it has Two Hots L1 & L2, Neutral, Equipment Ground IE 4 wires like the 50 amp RV system. Its purpose is for the dedicated return of FAULT CURRENT ONLY while the Neutral (Grounded Conductor) is to carry normal return current. Neutral (GrounDED Conductor) is NOTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTT the same as the Safety Equipment GroundING Conductor. Give it a few hours before you further load the system.FWIW here's another huge NOOOOOOOOOOO lol and FYI here's whyĪ 50 amp two pole 3 wire grounding receptacle has: Two Hots, L1 & L2 and an Equipment Ground, It DOES NOT have a Neutral (aka Grounded Conductor) which is absolutely required and necessary to properly and safely achieve 120 VAC from L1 or L2 to Neutral.…The RV DOES NOT use 240, it uses two legs L1 & L2 each of 120 VAC Line to NEUTRAL (which the dryer plug lacks)Ī metallic house water pipe may under certain circumstances suffice as a "Grounding Electrode" to which the incoming service entrances Neutral might be bonded ( NEC bonds to all "readily available" Grounding Electrodes) HOWEVER it is certainly by no means to be used as a Neutral for conducting normal return current. Keep in mind also that when you first plug in, your battery charging system may be putting a pretty strong draw on the current until the batteries are fully charged. If you don't have this kind of system, and you trip a breaker it isn't a disaster, just reset the breaker and make a note of what was turned on when the breaker tripped. Doing this sets the power management system to sense when current is nearing 20A and it will shed loads to keep the usage under 20A so you don't trip a breaker. When we go to 20A we have to press a button to set the system for incoming current at 20A. Our coach has a power management system that automatically senses the incoming current, 50A or 30A. I used a 15 foot 20A cord to get out of the garage to our 50A cord. A 15A extension cord on a 20A circuit effectively turns it into a 15A circuit. The longer your extension cord, the greater line loss so try to use the beefiest and shortest extension cord you can get. We had a 15/20A converter to 50A in a single plug and have used it frequently. Sometimes lighting circuits are 15A and in older homes some of those circuits could have outlets. We never used the air conditioners or heat pumps and when we used the microwave or the coffee pot, everything else was off.Ĭheck the breaker box in the house and find a 20A circuit. At times we had to run the furnace which runs off the battery and the charger replaces the charge between times when the furnace runs. We have the inverter on full time and the batteries are being charged in addition to using lights and TV. I've lived in the motor home parked in my mother's driveway for a month at a time with nothing but a single 110/120V outlet.
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